Fabric Dyeing Techniques
Hand Dyed Material is a Useful Addition to Many Sewing Projects
Jul 13, 2007
Remnants of fabrics can be dyed a single colorway, making them ideal for a quilt or patchwork project. Over dyeing a range of fabrics with a single color will present a wide selection of different colors, but all with a similar tone. Lighter colors, of course, will pick up the color of the new dye more readily than darker colors. This is a handy technique to use when looking to recycle and repurpose garments and fabrics.
Dyeing Techniques
Different dyeing techniques can create some wonderful and extremely unusual effects on fabric. Tie dyeing is very familiar, and whilst some of the clunky first attempts (often as a child) might conjure up some horrible memories, when done correctly the effects can be quite stunning. Other dyeing techniques such as shibori, dip dyeing, batik, printing etc each bring something different to the fabric. Silk painted panels can be incorporated into garments – a silk painted panel incorporated into a shawl for instance would have a stunning effect, or pieces of painted silk could be used as an appliqué decoration.
Finished garments can be dyed, and this can present an extremely good way to create some unique garments relatively cheaply. For instance a whole summer wardrobe could be created from a few yards of undyed cotton, and dyed afterwards in a range of complimentary colors. Or perhaps separate pieces of different garments could be dyed together before making up. This really lights the creative touch paper!
Another benefit of dyeing finished items is that if a dyeing technique is applied to the garment, it can be done in such a way that enhances the cut or style of the garment and would be difficult to achieve normally. For instance a dye pattern could be applied to the bottom of trousers, or using a technique such as shibori, small patterns could be formed in a line up the sleeves of a blouse etc.
Different Types of Dye
In order to successfully dye fabric, it is important to know what the fabric is made from. Different fabrics take dyes in different ways, and therefore to avoid disappointment it is important to use the correct dye for the fabric content. When used correctly, chemical dyes available now, will produce strong permanent colors that are light and wash fast. Even the same fibers but with different treatments and woven into different fabric types will take the dye at varying rates, resulting in some fabrics giving a deeper color than others.
Cellulose Fibers and Fabrics: Generally ‘cellulose’ fibers such as cotton, linen and hemp need a reactive dye. These are called Procion dyes and react with the fibers in the fabric. In addition to the dye, soda ash and sometimes salt is added to fix the dye. There are many different techniques, both cold and hot dyeing, dyeing in plastic bags, fabric printing to name a few – plus of course tie-dyeing!
Protein Fibers and Fabrics: Fabrics made from fibers such as wool, angora, alpaca are known as 'protein' fibers and require the use of acid dyes. These acid dyes need the water in the dye bath to be slightly acidic, hence the name. This is achieved with a squirt of any vinegar – there are no strong or harmful acids involved!
Note: Handily silk can be dyed with either dye type.
Neither dye type will work on the other group of fibers – for instance cotton cannot be dyed with acid dyes. This means that mixed fibers will take the dye in different ways. Fabrics made from mixed fibers are less straightforward to dye, and will require a combination dye which combines elements of the two dye types above.
Experiment with dyeing, and bring a new lease of life to some of those old remnants, fabrics and clothing lying around.
For more interesting articles take a look around the Sewing and Needlework site at Suite101.
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