When making bags, totes, pillow cases, sheer curtains, and in some cases garments, a clean, finished edge on both sides of the fabric is highly desirable. The French seam technique is an easy way to produce this neat, professional look.
Materials
- Fabric and matching thread
- Sewing machine
- Iron
- Pins
- Scissors
Stitch the First Seam on the Right Side of the Fabric
The first step in this process seems counter-intuitive: sewing fabric together with the wrong sides together and the right sides facing out, exactly the opposite of the way standard seams are constructed. (See photo first photo.)
The Steps for the First Seam
- Place fabric with wrong sides together, and the right sides facing out.
- Pin the fabric in place along the seam line.
- Use a one-quarter inch seam allowance to stitch the seam.
- Trim the seam allowance so that it is about about one-eighth inch from the stitching.
Pressing and Fold
- Open the fabric out flat on the ironing board with the right side up, and the raw edges showing.
- Press the raw edges in the same direction so they lay flat against the fabric. The seam allowance can be pressed in either direction, to the left or to the right, it doesn’t matter.
- Flip the fabric over to the wrong side where there is now a clean seam with no raw edges. Press along this seam.
- Still on the wrong side of the fabric, fold the fabric along the seam line so the right sides of the fabric are now together.
- Press again so that this seam is flat.
Stitch a Second Seam on the Wrong Side of the Fabric
Stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge on the wrong side of the fabric. (See photo 3. The raw edges of the fabric are now encased in a tube on the wrong side of the fabric. (See photo 4) This “tube” can be top-stitched in place so that it lays perfectly flat, or it can be left as is.
When to Use French Seams
This technique is often used on sheer fabrics so that an unsightly frayed seam, zig-zagged seam or serger edge isn’t visible through the fabric. It is also used on very light-weight fabrics that ravel easily. The double stitiching makes this a very strong seam, even on light-weight fabric. This technique also makes a nice edge on many cotton projects, such as pillow cases, tote bags or any time a finished, ravel-free edge is desired.
When Not to Use French Seams
French seams do not work well on thick or coursely woven fabric such as heavy wools. They also do not work well on curves where the fabric needs to be clipped to ease it along the curve, such as the seam of an inset sleeve. French seams also do not work well on really stretchy fabrics like spandex.
 |
 |
 |
 |
